August 26 / An Abandoned Island in Osaka Bay
Tomogashima Island(s)
An island of abandoned military bases is probably not the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Japan’s historical sites, but Tomogashima offers a perspective on Japanese history different from the usual temples and shrines.
Tomogashima is the name for the group of islands that consists of Jinoshima (地ノ島), Kamishima (神島), Okinoshima (沖ノ島), and Torajima(虎島), but Tomogashima is usually used synonymously to mean Okinoshima. Okinoshima island is about 2km in length with highest hill is about 120m from the sea level.
Thanks to the stunning scenery, the boat ride to the island is pretty pleasurable in-and-of-itself, and rumours that Tomogashima’s landscape inspired the Studio Ghibli movie Laputa: Castle in the Sky should help you understand why it’s a big pull for campers and hikers alike.
The islands have a rich history stretching back to the seventh century, and folklore has it that Torajima’s steep cliffs were used for training by the founder of the Shugendo (mountain asceticism) religion.
In the Meiji Period (1868-1912), the Japanese Imperial Army took advantage of Tomogashima’s strategic location and constructed a number of military defences on Okinoshima to protect Osaka Bay from invasion by foreign vessels. The fortresses continued to be used during the 2 wars, after which military operations were withdrawn. Tomogashima was then made part of the Setonaikai National Park and opened to public access.
There are five abandoned gun batteries and a couple of other military ruins to explore, clustered on the western side of the island. The sites are in various states of decay, from ‘still sturdy’ to ‘this thing looks like it’s going to collapse on top of me’, but throughout the island you can see nature slowly smothering these man-made structures.
It’s beautiful, somewhat eery and, well, awesome in both the traditional and modern sense of the word. The hiking trail that takes you around these sites isn’t too taxing and should take about two to three hours.
Of all the structures on Tomogashima, the 3rd Battery is the largest and probably most impressive. It consists of a maze of tunnels, hidden passageways and cavernous chambers, making for great exploring. Just be sure to wear comfortable shoes and bring a good-quality torch in order to make the most of it.
Scrambling around Tomogashima’s cliffs and rocky beaches is another great way to spend your time, and the scenic views make for perfect picnic spots.
Speaking of which, be sure to pack snacks and drinks in your bag as the facilities on the island are quite limited. If you’ve seen all the west side has to offer, you could head eastwards towards a lake to catch a glimpse of the wild deer and peacocks that inhabit the island.
Most visitors make Tomogashima a day-trip, but if you have time an overnight stay is definitely recommended for star-gazing under the spectacular night skies. There are two free (always a plus) campsites on the island with basic water and toilet facilities. Alternatively, there are two guest houses and one hotel, with prices up to 10,000 yen per night.
continue to September 03 / Tomogashima - part 2
An island of abandoned military bases is probably not the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Japan’s historical sites, but Tomogashima offers a perspective on Japanese history different from the usual temples and shrines.
Tomogashima is the name for the group of islands that consists of Jinoshima (地ノ島), Kamishima (神島), Okinoshima (沖ノ島), and Torajima(虎島), but Tomogashima is usually used synonymously to mean Okinoshima. Okinoshima island is about 2km in length with highest hill is about 120m from the sea level.
Thanks to the stunning scenery, the boat ride to the island is pretty pleasurable in-and-of-itself, and rumours that Tomogashima’s landscape inspired the Studio Ghibli movie Laputa: Castle in the Sky should help you understand why it’s a big pull for campers and hikers alike.
The islands have a rich history stretching back to the seventh century, and folklore has it that Torajima’s steep cliffs were used for training by the founder of the Shugendo (mountain asceticism) religion.
In the Meiji Period (1868-1912), the Japanese Imperial Army took advantage of Tomogashima’s strategic location and constructed a number of military defences on Okinoshima to protect Osaka Bay from invasion by foreign vessels. The fortresses continued to be used during the 2 wars, after which military operations were withdrawn. Tomogashima was then made part of the Setonaikai National Park and opened to public access.
There are five abandoned gun batteries and a couple of other military ruins to explore, clustered on the western side of the island. The sites are in various states of decay, from ‘still sturdy’ to ‘this thing looks like it’s going to collapse on top of me’, but throughout the island you can see nature slowly smothering these man-made structures.
It’s beautiful, somewhat eery and, well, awesome in both the traditional and modern sense of the word. The hiking trail that takes you around these sites isn’t too taxing and should take about two to three hours.
Of all the structures on Tomogashima, the 3rd Battery is the largest and probably most impressive. It consists of a maze of tunnels, hidden passageways and cavernous chambers, making for great exploring. Just be sure to wear comfortable shoes and bring a good-quality torch in order to make the most of it.
Scrambling around Tomogashima’s cliffs and rocky beaches is another great way to spend your time, and the scenic views make for perfect picnic spots.
Speaking of which, be sure to pack snacks and drinks in your bag as the facilities on the island are quite limited. If you’ve seen all the west side has to offer, you could head eastwards towards a lake to catch a glimpse of the wild deer and peacocks that inhabit the island.
Most visitors make Tomogashima a day-trip, but if you have time an overnight stay is definitely recommended for star-gazing under the spectacular night skies. There are two free (always a plus) campsites on the island with basic water and toilet facilities. Alternatively, there are two guest houses and one hotel, with prices up to 10,000 yen per night.
continue to September 03 / Tomogashima - part 2
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